Product Information

HOCKEY:

My stick has broken, what should I do next?

The nature of hockey means that sticks are subject to severe impacts and consistent wear. Needless to say if you believe the damage to your stick is unjustified please return it to us using the returns guidelines in the link. Please ensure to give a detailed description of how the damage occurred. Our returns department will then assess the stick and contact you as to what our next step will be. As a general rule a stick that breaks severely within the first 3 months of use is likely to be deemed faulty.

How do I know what length stick to get?

Junior sticks:

It is very important not to have a stick that is too long and as such we recommend that the stick, when placed to the player's side, should be parallel to the point of their hipbone. Conveniently, sticks are sized in length so simply measure from the ground to the point of the player's hipbone in inches and you will ascertain you size.

Senior sticks:

With seniors the task becomes slightly more difficult; there are two main sizes in senior sticks - 36.5 inches and 37.5 inches. Predominantly the decision comes down to players preference, the shorter stick gives greater control for dribbling, but a longer stick can give you a longer reach and allow you to play in a less crouched position. Our tip is always to try both sizes if you can borrow sticks from friends. 37.5 inches will be too tall if when you play you feel the end catching on your midriff. We have demo sticks available in store which are all 36.5 inches tall and light in weight as this is the most common purchase specification.

I am confused about which bow shape to get?

Mid Bow: This is the standard shape and is suitable for all positions.

Low Bow: It is likely that you will know if you require a lowbow, the lowered position makes dribbling and aerial shots easier and tends to be preferred by forward players and drag flick specialists.

What percentage of carbon should I be looking for?

Composite hockey sticks are made from a mix of fibreglass, carbon and kevlar. A higher percentage of carbon will give the stick a greater rigidity and thus more power. Kevlar offers better impact protection and shock reduction, whilst fibreglass is more flexible but offers greater durability.

Can I try the hockey sticks in store?

Absolutely - we are very proud at Barrington Sports to offer our customers a demo version of every stick on sale and a netted area with a goal to try them in. All of the demo sticks are 36.5 inches tall and light in weight as this is most common purchase specification. We want you to be 100% happy that you have the right stick for you, so spend as much time as you need trying them out and any of our experienced members of staff will always be on hand to offer you advice and help you fine tune your decision.

Do I need a mouthguard?

Absolutely! Although it is not a requirement in adult leagues, in many schools you will not be allowed to play without a mouthguard. Our mouth guards are designed to mould to your specific mouth shape giving you a comfortable fit. Once the adrenaline kicks in and the referees whistle blows, you won't even remember that you are wearing one.

CRICKET:

My cricket bat has broken, what should I do next?

As cricket bats are made from wood (a natural material), it is to be expected that the surface will experience natural superficial cracks on the face. Needless to say if you believe the damage to your bat is clearly detrimental to performance, please return it to us using the returns guidelines in the link. Please ensure to give a detailed description of how the damage occurred. Our returns department will then assess the bat and contact you as to out next step. Often we take the direct view of the brand, which can additional time before we reply with feedback. As a rule bats in your possession for longer than a season will be deemed to have experienced significant use and therefore be non-refundable.

How do I know what size cricket bat to purchase?

Height can give you a good indication, particularly for juniors [see our size guides]; however the main consideration is probably on balance overall weight and feel. Some bats will have a lower middle making them feel heavier to pick up; this will suit a front foot player on low bouncing wickets, but be sure you can manage the weight of the bat off the back foot too. A good test is to take your stance in the ready position with the bat lifted, now takeaway your bottom hand. If you feel like you cannot control the bat with your one hand then it is probably too heavy. We understand that not all of you are able to visit out store to try the bats, so please feel free to make use of our free returns service in order to get a feel for the bat and if it's not right and hasn't been used in any way, we will happily refund or exchange it for you.

As a guide please see the chart below for height indications:

Cricket Bat Size Chart
Bat Size Approx Age Height of Batsmen (feet) Bat Length (inches) Bat Width (inches)
1 4-5 to 4'3" 25 3/4" 3 1/2"
2 6-7 4'3" - 4'6" 27 3/4" 3 1/2"
3 8 4'6" - 4'9" 28 3/4" 3 3/4"
4 9-11 4'9" - 4'11" 29 3/4" 3 3/4"
5 10-12 4'11" - 5'2" 30 3/4" 4"
6 11-13 5'2" - 5'6" 31 3/4" 4"
Harrow 12-14 5'6" - 5'9" 32 3/4" 4 1/6"
Full SH 15+ 5'9" - 6'2" 33 1/2 4 1/4"
Full LH 15+ over 6'2" 34 3/8" 43/4"

Why are some bats a lot more expensive but look the same as others in the same range?

The bats are graded by the manufacturers dependent on the quality of the willow, a more expensive bat will generally have a straighter grain, less imperfections, more consistent colour across the blade and be more responsive to the ball and have greater 'ping' (rebound) when striking it.

What do I need to do in order to prepare my bat prior to playing with it?

Oiling: All natural faced bats MUST be treated using raw linseed or a specialist cricket bat oil/wax. The main purpose of oiling is to maintain moisture levels within the blade, and hence reduce the chances of cracking and splitting. Light coats should be applied to the face, edge, toe and back of the blade, taking care to avoid the logos and splice area. Generally two or three coats should be sufficient � approximately half a teaspoon. Each coat should be allowed to dry into the blade, which should be kept in a horizontal position before the next is applied.

Knocking-in: All bats are pressed, however 'knocking-in' is VITAL even where bats state they are pre-prepared. This is the process by which the fibres of the willow in the face and edges are compressed together to form a barrier that protects the bat against the impact of the ball. Effective 'knocking-in' will significantly improve the performance and increase the lifespan of the bat.

The 'knocking-in' process should be undertaken carefully using a special bat mallet or an old quality cricket ball. The bat should be repeatedly struck (with gradually increasing force) against the striking face of the blade paying particular attention to the face around the edges and toe. The edges or toe should not be struck directly at right angles to the blade. Glancing blows off the face to round the edge should be used. Patience is key! Do not strike the splice, handle, end or rear of the blade. This stage should take in the region of six hours, although every bat is different.

The bat should now be ready to graduate to use with an old ball in a netting or catching environment. Please note if the ball leaves seam marks in the face then further knocking-in with a mallet is recommended.

RUGBY:

What type of boots should I be wearing for the position I play?

Front row and second row forwards: Traction is paramount - Choose a sturdy boot with an 8-stud configuration for optimum grip.

Back row forwards: Whilst traction is still key agility is also important for quick breaks from the back of the scrum. Again an 8-stud configuration is preferable but look to a lighter weight boot.

Scrumhalf and Flyhalf: Two factors are importance here - speed and kicking accuracy. Choose a lightweight boot with specific grip on the upper to give control when kicking. Unless the ground is going to very hard a stud is preferable to a blade in order to give you a good plant when striking the ball.

Centres, Wingers and Fullback: Speed is everything here, a light boot with a multi stud or blade configuration further reduces weight whilst giving stability in all directions for sidesteps and bursts of acceleration.

What size headguard should I get?

A headguard must fit tightly in order to function correctly. Most will have a tie at the back to give a tighter fit and size guides can be found on all of our headguards by clicking the tab within in the product description.

Do I need a mouthguard?

Absolutely, you will not be allowed to play without a mouthguard. Our mouth guards are designed to mould to your specific mouth shape giving you a comfortable fit. Once the adrenaline kicks in and the referees whistle blows you won't even remember that you are wearing one.

NETBALL:

Why should I wear a netball trainer rather than a normal trainer?

Specific cushioning and support in a netball trainer will give you shock absorption when landing and support when moving from side to side, that a running shoe cannot. Most netball shoes will also have a pivot area on the sole which allows you to swivel more easily, reducing friction and increasing the shoes durability. Most Netball shoes also utilise non-marking rubber outer soles and incorporate multiple flex grooves that allow you to grip the court and change direction quickly and easily.

RUNNING:

How do I know whether to look for a neutral or structured cushioned shoe?

Neutral and structured shoes refer to whether you, as a runner 'over pronate' or not. Most people 'over pronate' and if you do then you require a structured cushioned shoe in order to correct your gait cycle and prevent injury. To find out if you over pronate or not, a simple video analysis of you running can be done in our store. However if you are not within traveling distance you can do a simple wet foot test. This is not an extensive test and should not be used instead of a video gait analysis when possible but it will give you an indication as to how 'flat footed' you are. Being 'flat footed' is one indication that you are over pronating and need a structured shoe. Neutral or high arched feet would indicate the need for a Neutral cushioned shoe. Simply wet the soles of your feet and stand on a dark smooth surface, then match your arch shape to the ones below. Be careful not to slip over.